At only 24 years of age, Said Bhai is considered one of the best builders of the
qanun in Tanzania. The
qanun,
a stringed instrument of the zither family that is native to Egypt and
Turkey, is a complicated musical instrument that is very difficult to
make, which makes Said a rare breed.
Said, who was born in a small village called Uzi Ng’ambwa on the island of Zanzibar, is a carpenter by profession and also a
taarab
musician – a local genre not typically associated with the instrument.
His workshop is located in Meya village in the Jang’ombe area of the
island. He started learning the craft aged just 9 and by now he
considers himself a fairly fine carpenter.
Said started experimenting with making musical instruments in 2010
out of curiosity for how they were made. Although he was able to make
other instruments, it took him a while before he could make his first
perfect
qanun, which he accomplished in 2014. “When I looked at the
qanun,
I realized it was made of wood and that it looks like a piece of
furniture. So I decided to try my hand at it. I am happy that I tried
and eventually got it right,” he told
Music In Africa in an
interview at the island’s Forodhani Gardens near the imposing Old Fort,
the venue of the recently concluded 2015 edition of the
Sauti za Busara festival.
The parts of a
qanun are delicate and have to be finely crafted in order for it to sound right. Making a perfect-sounding
qanun
requires special wood that can withstand both hot and cold weather.
Zanzibar is fairly warm throughout the year and Said knows that the
weather could be favourable to the instrument if made from local timber.
However, if the instrument were to be exported to cooler climates by a
client, it might develop defects and may not work perfectly.
The best wood for this instrument that grows on the island comes from the
mdoriani tree, while there is another wood not native to the island that is equally suitable:
gelvelia.
Gelvelia comes from mainland Tanzania and has to be shipped in, which makes it relatively expensive.
Making a
qanun is painstaking work that requires patience and keen attention to detail. Said spends up to one month working on just one
qanun.
Part of the reason for this is that he doesn’t own the right tools for
the job and has to improvise using the ordinary carpentry tools that he
has. According to Said, the easiest part of the job is making the narrow
trapezoidal soundboard, which takes him a week to complete. It is the
frets and the tuning pegs that are the most difficult and take him the
remainder of the month to complete. These have to be done perfectly,
otherwise the
qanun will never sound right.
There are two types of
qanun that Said can make: Egyptian
and Turkish. Although they are essentially the same, they have marked
differences both in the way they are made and the way they sound.
According to Said, the Turkish
qanun is more complex and has a richer sound than the Egyptian one. Egyptian (and European)
qanuns employ half-tones, while the Turkish (or Arab)
qanuns employ quarter tones.
“The Turkish one is more interesting to me because of its design,”
explains Said. “It has more frets than the Egyptian one, meaning it has
more chords. While the Egyptian one has a quarter, half, three-quarters
and a full chord, the Turkish one has an eighth, a quarter, a half,
three-eighths, three-quarters and a full chord. This means that even if
someone can’t sing well, you can still strike a chord for him on the
Turkish
qanun!”
The other marked difference is that the Turkish
qanun has
215 frets, while the Egyptian has 105. There are marked differences in
design as well: the Egyptian is bigger in size than the Turkish one,
which is smaller and more finely crafted.
The
qanun is played by plucking the strings with two
tortoise-shell picks, one in each hand, or by the fingernails. It has a
range of three octaves, from A2 to E6. According to Said, the fewest
strings a
qanun can have is 78, meaning the corresponding tuning pegs have to be equal in number. The typical Turkish
qanun
has 26 courses of strings, with three strings per course. To change the
pitch while playing, the musician uses special latches on each course
called
mandals.
Although the instrument is yet to gain popularity with the island’s
taarab musicians, it is slowly making headway. A modern
taarab
band recently contracted Said to incorporate it in their recording.
Bands who have so far used the instrument include Malindi Taarab Club,
Culture Music Club and various
taarab groups at the
Dhow Countries Music Academy,
a local centre situated a stone’s throw from the Old Fort that offers
music training to upcoming musicians. As for mainland Tanzania, there
are currently no
qanun players that Said knows of. Whenever mainland musicians want to incorporate the
qanun into their compositions, they have to source both the instrument and the player from Zanzibar.
Although the
qanun works with other forms of music, Said feels it is more suitable for traditional
taarab – the so-called “cultural”
taarab. According to him, no proper cultural ensemble is complete without the
qanun. However, the instrument is not only restricted to
taarab. “People are slowly realizing what the
qanun
is and increasingly they invite us to incorporate it into their music,”
explains Said. “We have added its flavour to hip-hop music, popularly
called Bongo Flava. We are trying to make people realize that this
instrument is not just for use in
taarab music.”
Although Said is currently the sole maker of this unique instrument
in Zanzibar, he is not the first to try. He claims that another local
carpenter attempted to make one a while back, but abandoned it half-way
when it proved too complicated. Given the lack of competition, one might
assume that Said is able to make a good living from his craft. Actually
the opposite is true - he says he is struggling to make ends meet. “The
qanuns I make fetch Tsh. 2 800 000 (about US$1500) in Turkey.
But here in Zanzibar, I sell them at about Tsh 1 000 000 (US$530), which
is not even half of its worth. But I still do it to help musicians and
to advertise my trade.
“Had I been working in a proper environment, I could make up to 40 or 50 quality
qanuns
a month,” he continues. “At the rate I am selling them here, I can’t
really sustain all my needs. But I have to hang in there. The irony of
living in Zanzibar is that if I were to brand my
qanuns ‘Made in Turkey’, then they would fetch three times more! People here value something according to where it is coming from.”